Monday, November 26, 2007

Arrivederci Italy . .

Some random thoughts and photos . . . First, presentation is everything here . . . (A photo I took from one of the vegetable stands I came across)


My first prosecco in Venice!

My first meal in Venice (Sole Filet with vegetables) at La Culcina Restaurant . . .

Campo Santa Margherita . . .

The day has finnaly arrived. My last full day in Venice. And here's some random thoughts of my experience

- First, I love Italy more now than ever!

- I have discovered that I am a true Slow Traveler. (Thank you Pauline and Steve for creating Slow Travel, I never would have discovered this way of traveling had it not been for your creation). I enjoy staying in one location for more than a few days. It really does give you the opportunity to get to know culture. They say to immerse yourself in the experience. It's all true!

- I love staying in an apartment in a real neighborhood. I felt more a part of it. I don't think I really understood this concept until now.

- I enjoyed the wonderful and beautiful art, visiting the churches/museums, seeing the spectacular scenery.

- I loved riding the Vaporetto early in the morning and watching Venice come alive. And I also loved riding it late at night when Venice was coming to another beautiful end. I had to invest in a scarf and gloves because I especially loved that first seat at the front of the No. 82 Vaporettos.

- I loved my early morning walks/runs around my neighborhood then stopping off for some breakfast at my neighborhood caffe.

- I loved the food, prosecco/wine and especially the gelato.

- I loved the small and intimate campos that fill the Districts of Venice. They are not large and grand like San Marco Piazza but I enjoyed them way better. I actaully didn't get a chance to have my cup of memories in San Marco like I had planned but I had something much better. I had my cup of memories in these wonderfuly small and intimate campos (Campo San Stefano, Santa Margarita . . . ). There were no dueling classical music but there were the sounds of life in Venice. Families conversing, children riding their bikes and laughing and vendors selling their products to the locals. I loved all of it.

- I loved my day trips to Treviso, Ravenna, Ferrara and the Dolomites . . .

- I appreciated the history and traditions of Venice. I even was lucky enough to participate in a special annual tradition called the La Salute Fiesta.

- But the most memorable (as always) things that I will remember most about this trip are the people. My fellow tour mates, fellow travelers, local vendors, waiters, the Caffe ladies who made the best panini's and a couple of locals who I may even stay in touch with. Each one of them taught me something and I have the deepest appreciation for having had the pleasure of meeting them.

So today, I will enjoy my last full day here. I hope to return again soon but until then I will say Arrivederci to Italy until we meet again. . . .


Thank you to all the people I have met, all of you who took the time to read my blog.

And to Italy! I say Ciao' and thank you for a wonderful time. It was so Awesome!

Sunday, November 25, 2007

Here comes the sun . . .

The sun has finally decided to reappear today and I am soooo happy. Afterall, I am a Southern California Girl and three days of overcast wet weather was more than I have seen in a while.

Yesterday I had my Dolomite tour up to Cortina. There were three other pepole booked on the tour with me. A mother and her two teenage sons from Vermont. They were really nice and I was glad that they were on the tour with me. Our tour guide was Stefano. A very nice, older gray haired gentlemen that was a really good driver. And that is saying a lot from someone that suffers from motion sickness. It rained the whole time that we were there but I was still so happy to have seen a bit of the Italian Dolomites. We passed through some very nice scenice towns just under the shadows of those sharp jagged edged mountains. There were ski lifts and bike paths going through some of the towns. I couldn't even imagine riding here! But if I could, I think it would be an awesome trip. We had lunch in a very nice town called Auroonzo di Cadore. I had a pizza with (get this) french fries on it. I think it is called Pizza Margarita con fritas! We shared a half liter of wine then ended with a glass of grappa. My first time drinking grappa and I almost fell on the floor it was so strong. I think I like my prosecco much, much better.

It even snowed while we were eating our lunch and the scenery and atmosphere was simply awesome. The beauty of the Italian Dolomites was everything I was hoping for and I am sooo glad that I booked this tour.

Images of the small but delightful island of Burano

Basilica di San Vitale

Church of Sant' Apollianare in Classe, Byzantine art church is two miles from the center of Ravenna but worth the effort to visit it. You can take either take the Number 4 or 44 bus and it drops you off right there. Very easy to do.


great bar cafe in Ravenna
Venice in High water, it was a sight to see Beautiful Town in the Dolomites.

Well, gotta run. The sun is finally out so I have to go get a gelato and enjoy two more campos that I have not seen yet.
Ciao'

Friday, November 23, 2007

High Waters . . . and Photos!

Here is one of the Mosaics that I had the great pleasure of viewing during my day trip to Ravenna. I can't thank ST enough for steering me in that direction.


This is a shot of my secondi meal at La Gardela in Ravenna. Fabulous restaurant that was recommended by ST. The waiter actually recognized the picture I had of it when ordering. They even fixed it without the squid just the shrimp. That was very cool of them.


Here is a great sunset of the Grand Canal while riding the Vaporetto Number 1

This is a shot of the La Salute Church during the annual Fiesta La Salute on Nov. 21. It was an amazing experience to be here for this special day.


I couldn't get to an internet yesterday so here I am trying to catch up. First of all, I absolutely love staying in an apartment for the very first time and I really love staying in a real neighborhood and not in a touristy part. I think this experience has really changed how I will travel on future trips. I think after this trip I have finally earned the status of a REAL Slow Traveler. It's so Awesome! Goes to showt hat Life is continually moving and changing. And on this trip I am reminded that sometimes you just have to step out of your comfort zone in order to discover new experiences. It makes things exciting. It makes it new. It makes things adventurous. And you feel alive.

On this trip I have had the pleasure of meeting some interesting people (just as I had the good fortune of doing last year). Some have been travelers that I have met in passing, some have been my local neighborhood vendors like the kind woman that showed me how to wear my scarf after I bought it, to some local people I met and have had a great time hanging with. One in particular, but that is a whole other story. Let's just say that I have really grown to LOVE Italy even more now then ever. I think I may stay in touch with one person at least, who knows. And just maybe some day I will be able to stay for longer periods of time . . . say 3 months! That would be cool.

Yesterday it rain steadily for the first time, so I decided to visit the Peggy G. Museum. It was very cool. I actually like Modern Art a lot, not many people do. I went very early (as soon as they opened) and that was smart of me because there were times when I had the whole room to myself and I could literally take my time admiring and studying each piece. It was really beginning to rain more steadily, but I manageed to make my way to Campo Santa Margharita for a really late lunch at Dickins Inn (Another Chow recommendation). Let's just say that all the meals that I have had from Chow have been great and the ones that I happened across on my own has not been great. That's what I get for trying to be creative. I learned early on to just stick to their recs.

On Wednesday, I forgot to mention my first trip to the Rialto Market! This was an amazing place that literally filled all of my senses. There was the smell of fresh fish, the bright colors of all the fresh fruit and vegatables that filled the stands and the sounds of the vendors and local residents conversing with great animation I might add. This was such a great place to see some action.

Anyway, back to yesterday. As I was walking back after my great meal topped with a cup of gelato from across the ways I ran into a group of americans. One of the ladies stopped at this restaurant to read if they were serving turkey! She reminded me that yesterday was Thanksgiving Day! I completely forgot. I sort of did miss the traditional dinner and get together with friends and family and bumming around watching football until dark. But you know what. Having a great meal in Venice Italy isn't too shabby either! I gave thanks to having this opportunity. Later, it became uncomfortable walking in the rain so at the last minute I hopped on the Varporetto and decided to cruise the Grant Canal in the dark and in the rain. It was something spontaneous and in hindsight what a great and unique Thanksgiving Day memory that I can look back on for years to come.


Today, I was surprised with my first dose of high waters in Venice! It was unbelievable. I literally stood on the corner near my apartment and watched as locals and tourists maneuvered this patch of high water. People had high rubber boots, some had plastic bags, some had these high plastic like boots wrapped and the poor unluch souls with nothing got their shoes wet. I of course was one of those unlucky unprepared tourists. I watched as people got soaking wet. One lady actually fell (I felt so bad for her and actually rushed over to see if I could help). She got her whole backside wet but smartly held on to her nice SLR camera. I would've done the same.

So what should I do. I went in the opposite direction toward the La Salute stop. I was going to visit two more campos but just had to go to Piazza San Marco to see the high waters there. And I did and it was unbelievable. I watched Youtube videos of this and was in awe and now I was seeing it live. I walked around and bought one of those temporary boots (I'm thinking this would be useful if on the day I leave I have high waters again). I then bought a scoop of gelato and enjoyed watching the activity. Don't ask me why? I just found it so interesting. Now I do, but I'll be praying there is none of this when I leave Venice. Lucky my suitcase converts to a backpack.

Well, I'm out of time again so off I go. More high waters and more campos to discover. Its funny but I have really grown to enjoy visiting and discovering the small and intimate campos that fill Venice. And I have rarely visited San Marco! Interesting!

Well, ciao' for now.

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Strolling, Cruising, Eating, drinking and learning . . .

My day trip to Ravenna and Ferrara was a big success. I really loved Ravenna. I got off the train in Ferrara and spent a couple of hours exploring. I went to the Castle and was amazed at the paintings. Climbed the tower and had a great view of the town. I'm so glad that I decided to stop off here. More details will be coming when I get home. I made it in time to continue on my same ticket to Venice. The next train was a Eurostar and so I had to pay extra since my ticket was only a regional train. Well, I figure I had never taken a Eurostar before so in life there are always first times to be had. And I did. I can really see why it is more expensive. Even the second class section looked really elegant. I had a really enjoyable ride there. When I arrived back at my apartment I realized how much I really missed it. Especially my big and comfy bed.


Today, is a relaxing day. I got up in time to walk over to the La Salute Festival event. I went earlier so I could attend a mass before the real crowds came. Local Venetians were walking towards this grand chruch from all directions. Over the temporary bridge, from the side calles, from the vaporetta . . . They came with their hopes, their prayers, their thoughts. . . . They purhcase their candles and enter the church to light them in memory of a loved one perhaps. What I know is that everyone has their reasons.

I see a Kiosk nearby run by some nuns. I "thought" they were selling these items. They had holy water and other things. I asked Quanto costa! And they responded with a smile and a flurry of words . . . all in Italian. Finally, one of the nuns hands me a Virgin Mary statue with holy water. I finally figured out that that they were not selling these but giving them to people. I say with a humble smile to them and the Italian man that was trying to help me and the nuns with our communication .... a very sincere grazie'. I felt like such a heel. This little statue with the holy water will be one of my most prized souvenoir! It will remind me of the humbleness and graciousness of the Italian people here in Venice.

While in the church during the earlier mass (which I again enjoyed). The singing was made even more beautifuly by the acoustics in the church. I actually sang along in Italian once I learned the verse. This experience was definitely special.

Guess what? I finally decided to buy some groceries. Finally! They consisted of half a dozen eggs, some bread and cheese and a bottle of prosecco. What can I say! I love that drink.

I went to visit (Campo Ghetto Nuovo) in the district of Cannargio. I really liked wondering through Cannargio. It seems like a real neighborhood here. People standing around, kids playing soccer . . . I of course stopped in a little caffee to get a quick bite to eat and at a nearby gelatario for more gelato. Not even cold weather can stop me from this treat. Remember, its been two years since I've been back to Italy!

After my little self tour of this great neighborhood I head out to see more churches and campos. Stopped by Campo di S Alivso (and church), Madonna dell Orto church and San Marcuola. All covered by the Chorus pass which I bought at a Slow Traveler's recommendation (Thanks again Annie).

Well, I think my 30 minuti is up and I have to run.

Ciao' and safe travels everyone!

Monday, November 19, 2007

Great Day Trip, Meal and Discoveries . . .

Today I leave this great town of Ravenna and head back to Venice with a short stop in Ferrara. Yesterday, I was on my way to find that Wine Bar that was recommended along with La Gardela by Shannon, but before I did I wondered around a bit and hobnobbed with the local scene. Just past Campo Papoplo there is a small but highly cute Merry Go Round. Local families brought their little kids to have a go around while "Merry Go Round" type music is playing in the background. Very cute, very family oriented. Ravenna actually reminds me a lot of Prague. There is a energy around and it feels comfortable. I could actually spend two nights in Ravenna. I'm so glad I came and spent the night. It really took the pressure off to zip in and zip out of the Mosaic structures.

Last night I had quite a wait for La Gardela to open and I was starving, so on my way to find that wine store I also stumbled upon this very cool, colorful (being the visual person that I am), neon hip kind of Bar/Caffe. They had everything, drinks, these really good looking pastries and coffee. I ordered my prosecco and a little pastry and it was sooo good. Well, there goes the wine bar idea. It was very enjoyable and gave me a chance to just chill! Next, I find La Gardela. I was holding a print out of the two reviews made on Slow Travel and its funny that the waiter recognized the picture of one of their meals and he said it was very good. It was my secondi item. I had a lasagna for the primi. All I can say is it was so delicious. Pictures to come of course. The reviews were spot on right and I had a great time talking with my waiter because he had a friend who lives in California. The service was excellent and I was so glad for the recommendation. Shannon and Colleen really know their stuff.

AnnieNC, if you are reading this, thank you for the comments you made on Ginger's thread. That was just so cool of you. I have to tell you that your blog had really inspired me to visit as many churches (and there are a lot of them) while in Venice. Tomorrow there will be a big annual mass at the La Salute church. It is a fiesta where the big high priest will perform the mass. It is said that the whole (or most of it) of Venice might be there so I will need to get there an hour before. It starts and 10:00 am. A temporary bridge was even built near the church over the Grand Canal. This is so it will be easier for the general population (locals) can easily attend the mass. Interesting!

I have gone in several churches (small and large and which I will list later when I get home) and I still have two more that I am interested in seeing. I can definitely see your attraction to them. They offer art, history, belongingness, spirituality and maybe even hope. When I attended Mass at the La Salute (created by the Venicians as gratitude for the health from plague-I think this is what history states), I say what appeared to be a ill Italian in a wheelchair with what looked like her sister and family. They were praying before the Mass for about 30 minutes. During mass I had to look over a couple of times and I just knew what they were praying for. Who knows what this woman had or if she will recover but one thing for sure people still has to have hope. Even, when in my parents state, with doctors telling us that there was no cure and no operation that would help them we still had hope. It made me a little sad when I looked over at them but if this church and its significance can give some comfort to this family then it is very special and so I must attend that annual fiesta to celebrate what this church means to the people of Venice.

So thank you AnnieNC for bringing attention to the wonderful churches of Venice and I plan on following your blog as you bring more attention to these historical and also meaningful structures.

Well, breakfast seems to be ready.

Awesome Mosaics and Random Thoughts!

I'm here in Ravenna and am taking advantage of the free internet offered by my Hotel (Hotel Bryon). The Mosaics are nothing short of spectacular! I mean the intricate detail, art, significance and work that was put into this was incredible. I just couldn't believe how really magnificent they are. I also found out that there is an actual school that teaches how to create these mosaic master pieces. How, do I know this? Well, while trying to find St. Vitale I got lost and walked into their school. An honest mistake, I saw their mosaics near the entrance and thought I found what I was looking for. He He . . .

Anyway, I have to thank those ST'ers who recommended Ravenna (Colleen, Shannon, Cubbies, Dragonpat, Zerlina, JeanneM). Yesterday, I had the pleasure of also visiting another recommended town called Treviso(Thanks also to Jim and Michael). Gosh I hope I didn't miss anyone.

I really like Ravenna a lot as well as Treviso. Lots of cyclists (just my kind of town). The shopping opportunities are also fun.

And then there was the moment! This is a really long story, not to go into detail here. It's nothing bad, just wow!

Trying to catch up again...I discovered a great route for my morning runs. It is very close to my apartment and is along the opposite Canal from the Grand Canal. It is simply fabulous to run along with no one around. It's dark, it's quiet and it's Venice, Italy! Another random thought . . . I learned that I love riding the vaporetta early in the morning (before the tourists arrive and the Venetians head into town for work). It is cold but so incredible to watch Venice come alive! The opposite of that is taking the Vaporetto late at night when all the tourists are gone and workers have retired for the evening. It is amazing and is everything like what I saw on that Youtube video that I had been obsessing for weeks. I love my local bar and caffe and enjoy going there in the morning and evening. Can you tell I haven't cooked once! What can I say. I am however making good use of the frig and washing machine though!

Oh, there is just too much in my head that has happened so far and it is all good!

Okay, back to Ravenna. I just returned from a bus ride out of town to see the Apponile Classe Church which was awesome. And now I'm just waiting for La Gardela Restaurant to open so I have dinner. I missed lunch since I was running around trying to see all the Mosaics and am starving. Maybe I'll go have a little prosecco! He He!

well, ciao again!

Saturday, November 17, 2007

Starting to feel like a local . . .

You know that you are starting to feel like a local when the local baker recognizes you as you go in to buy some breakfast goodies! And you know what? It feels good. Yesterday was very long as at the last minute I decided to take a trip to Burano and Torcello. I had read about these two islands (Burano for their famous lace and colorful quaint houses) and Torcello with its inhabitants of a measly 20 venetians but more famously for where Hemmingway stayed at the Locanda Hotel. It is a quiet little island with a campanile that I decided I wanted to climb (which I did). Very few tourists were in Torcello and I pretty much (at one point) was up there all by myself.

I finally found the Accademia Pizza Restaurant which was recommended in Chow and had my pizza and prosecco. It was great. Sat next to a really interesting couple (of course I told them about ST). Last year my favorite drink was those Hot Wine drinks and this year it is definitely prosecco! I love them so much I've had several already. And although it has been brisk I've managed to have several gelatos. You know me. I've had vanilla (cream), pistaschio and my all time favorite, coco! Whoo Hoo!

Today, I visited the Salute Church and actually stayed for Mass. As I sat there and watched and listened to the Italian Priest, I gave thanks for the health of the people around me, namely my sister and her family, myself and my friends. I did light several candles and gave several prayers for those that I know were ill (you know who you are, Bea's niece Iza, Yolanda's mom) and for the continued health my sis.

I am really enjoying myself here. So much to see and do. So much to eat and drink (this part I'm really loving).

On Thursday I took the Doges Palace and Secret Itinerary tour which was pretty awesome!

Anyway, I still can't seem to log in to my e mail so hopefully people are reading this to know why I haven't yet e'mailed them.

I'm definitely having a blast here and I'm in particular enjoying being in one place for a while. On Monday I leave for Ravenna for an overnight day trip. That will be exciting.

Well, gotta run as my time is running out!

Ciao'

Thursday, November 15, 2007

Ciao from Venice

I finally found an internet cafe on my third day here. For a brief overview, I arrived safely and the weather was nearly perfect. Brisk yet sunny! With no time to waste I went on the hunt for my first meal. I could not find the Accademia Pizza Restaurant from Chow, so settled at La Cucina Restaurant! What did I have, a fantastic Sole Filet with vegatebles, and a very nice glass of Proseco! It was the best meal I have had in a while. Or just maybe it is because I was savoring it while sitting in Venice.

Funny thing is, I have been to Venice twice before (as one of those hoards of daytrippers) and yet this was the first sunset that I have seen while Venice. That seemed so wrong to me and maybe that is why I am here. To correct this travisty and make it right. And my first sunset experience in beautiful Venice was absolutely spectacular. The boats were whizzing by, people were strolling along the walkway, I was enjoying a great dinner and a brilliant glass of prosecco. Life is good! Actually life is GREAT!

I hope to catch up on my blog more now that I have found this internet site. It is near Campo Margarita!

I tried to e mail some people, but of course I can not remember my password and just gave up. Hopefully people will read my blog.

I am thinking of going to Burano and Torcello tomorrow! Of course I already experienced being lost in Venice but during the process found a great gelato place! Oh the little surprises one finds when walking the calles of this great city.

Ok, oky ciao again...