Monday, November 23, 2009

Scotland: Beautiful, Peaceful, Soft, Harsh, Dramatic, Predictable, Unpredictable, Extreme . . .

Thank you so much to everyone for all of your kind comments and taking the time to read my blog. I'm so glad that you have found it interesting, humorous and inspiring that you may one day want to visit Scotland and the Highlands. Today was my 4th Day here and although I have one more full day left I can already begin to feel that sad emotion of having to say farewell until next time (which I hope there will be). The title of my blog pretty much sums up how I would describe the Isle of Skye and the west Highlands. It is a very beautiful and unspoilt land that I think everyone should have to experience at least once in their life time. If I am lucky maybe it will be twice in my lifetime.

I have heard the term "God's Country" when describing Scotland and the Highlands and I think I can understand why! When I'm sitting at the breakfast room in my hotel and looking out onto Portee Bay and the Cullins I am hypnotized by the simplicity and beauty. When driving even in a downpour I can't help but still be in awe with the rolling hills of grass and white spots of sheep that I have become really fond of seeing while driving. They are busy chewing their grass, some of them cross the roads with no sense of you waiting for them to cross. And I just love them.

The Highlands is known for it's high winds! I remember reading an entry by Deborah about it and now I can relate. There were two times when I felt the strongest of the winds, on the Quiraing peak and near the Cullin Hills yesterday. The wind was unbelievable. The power harnessed could light up Manhattan New York for a year! Let's just say I didn't bother brushing each time I stepped out of the car. There was really no point. :)

Yesterday, I traveled south from Portee on the A863 to visit the Cullin Hills. There are two Cuillin ranges; the Black Cuillins, formed of jagged dark igneous rock, and the softer, rounder peaks of the Red Cuillins, formed of red granite. I had read that one of the best places to view the Cullin Hills is from a very tiny town called Sligachan.


Then I visited the second largest town, Bradford (taking the A863) . . .



From Bradford, I took a small single track road to Egol . . .


I also traveled on the A850 to visit the famous Fairy tale Dunvegan Castle which is located on the western side of the Isle. Unfortunately, it was closed! eek! Not very good planning on my part. Luckily I found a side gate opened and went in to at least take a photo....


Today, I traveled south again on the A87 and I took the Talisker Distillery Tour which is located near the town of Carbost. It was only 5lbs and it was for about 40 minutes. At the beginning of the tour they give you a free sample of their single malt. They give you a bottle of Water too which I understood why as soon as I sipped my Scotch Whisky. I'll borrow Girasoli's saying! Whoa! Strong is putting it mildly. There is a smokey taste to it just like how Sandra and Marta described. Very good though. It's funny that the lady told me that there is no shame is adding water. :)

It was an interesting tour and the process is so specific and they don't sway from it because that is what their flavors are known for. I didn't know that their whisky is used in other liquer like Rum, Baileys, etc. But they are well known for their single malts too. And they are the most expensive. After all the fermenting with Peat, the mashing and washing (using Copper machinery), the final products goes into these oak barrels where they will have to mature for at least 3 years before they are considered Whiskey (before then it is referred to as spirits). Did you know that there is an acutal Scottish law that says that you can't call it whisky until then! While it lays there maturing the liquids will evaporate from the barrels (just the natural process) at least by 2 percent. And there is an old Scots saying that says that this 2 percent is for the "Angels". I thought that was a cute saying.

After the tour we are led to their shop. I just had to buy a little bottle for a souvenir. Thank goodness I brought a wine skin (which I learned about from Cindy Ruth aka Baked Alaska, thanks Cindy)with me to pack it when I go home. Thanks again Sandra for the tour idea. That was really fun. The second photo is of their storage room and the barrels there are from 1979! And did you know that the alcohol is actually clear and that the coloring actually comes from the natural color of the barrells. Interesting!



I ended the day with a nice walk on this path called the Scorrybreac Cercuit which is actually located right by my hotel. The path is well paved which made it nice and it was a great way to end my 4th full day here.





I have one more full day here on the Isle before I head back to Fort William. I will travel going over the Kyle Bridge, stopping to see the Eilean Castle. Then after one night in Fort William (maybe I'll be lucky with clear weather so I can actually see Ben Nevis) I will return my car and take the train to Edinburgh where I will stay for 8 days in an apartment. Can't wait to see all the cool Holiday events and Finale week festivities for St. Andrews Day Homecoming week.

I totally loved my adventures here in the Highlands from the wonderful Road to the Isles, Arisaig and the Silver Sands of Morar and the wonders and intrigue of the Isle of Skye with it's dramatic scenery and equally dramatic weather, it's very cool sheep and Highland Cows, and the fierce winds of the Quiraing and the beauty of the Cullins! Tomorrow is my last full day here and if the weather holds up, I may drive up and give the Quiraing another go.

I know for sure that my apartment in Edinburgh does not have wi-fi, so I will try to find an internet cafe the first chance that I get. And if I don't get a chance to blog before the holidays (hopefully I will), I want to wish all of my blogging friends and their families a very Safe and Happy Thanksgiving! Thank you so much for reading my entries.

Meanwhile, more visuals...First, the small town of Portee is so quaint and charming. I think it has been the ideal location to base myself here on Skye while I explore the different peninsulas. BTW, I brought my garmin but the roads have been so easy to follow and to be honest I never used it once...


Second, my meals in the Highlands have been wonderful. They serve a lot of seafood and being so close to the waters they have been fresh and very yummy! Thanks so much to Marta for sharing her magazine with me in preparation for my trip. It has been so helpful. This dish was a fresh Salmon, with steamed veggies and potatoes with this sauce that was made with mayo. It was delicious.


Third, while driving back I saw the most perfect Rainbow and it reminded me of Anne's blog entries with her beautiful rainbows. I hit the breaks and took several photos of it...


And last but not least. This is not quite a sunset, but it is the closest that I've come to it. I took this from the window of my hotel room. This has been my view everynight! So priceless.



More to come I promise...

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Scotland: The Sights and Sounds of the Trotternish Peninsula . . .

Today, I explored the Trotternish Peninsula. It rained all day yesterday but today it was a lot better. Clear but cold and very windy. And Yay, no rain.

I took the road traveling north towards the town of Staffin. The Trotternish ridge is made of volcanic rock and one of its most famous rock formation is the Old Man of Storr. From Loch Fada I managed to get a good look at this amazing formation. I then traveled on to Kilt Rock which is a 200 ft high sea cliff with a beautiful waterfall nearby. The massive columns of dolerite resembles the pleats on a Kilt, hence the name. It looked exactly like the photos of saw of it during trip planning. It was totally cool to see it in person.

Next, I ventured on a small single track Road that climbed up on switchback roads through the Quiraing. The views during this part of the drive was so amazing. There is a car park and a path that leads you up a short hill for a better view. It was so cold and windy. And I mean very windy. I went as far as I was willing to go. I could have gone higher but with the wind and unsure footing because of the rain from the night before I stopped, took photos and then headed back down the rocky pathy. In better conditions I might have gone all the way up, but I decided that I would rather stop and live to tell about it then to go any further. :)

On the way down I approach a small sea port village called Uigg where I heard about a Pier Restaraunt as a nice place to have lunch. And it was. I had some prawns and chips with a salad. It was very delicious and had a beautiful view of the bay.

From here it was a quick drive (15 miles) back to Portee and just in the nick of time because it started to down pour. Whew! I got most of my must see's in.

I have some photos, but I thought this time I would share the Sights and Sounds of my day's adventure! :)

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Scotland: The Silver Sands of Morar and More . . .

Today, I woke up and was surprised with the clear weather. I took advantage by deciding to do a quick walk in one of the beaches located between Arisaig and Morar. First, I come across a sandy beach with rocky islets, across from the Traigh Golve Course which is just off the Old Coastal Road heading south to Mallaig. From here you have spectacular views to the islands of Eigg and Rhum and to the Cullins of Skye. And since the weather was really nice today I could actually see them. Very cool!


I decided to do a quick walk along the beach and through the dunes . . . after walking this one stretch I looked back and saw my shoe prints in the sand and double back to take a photos. . . I guess it reminded me of the quote "Footprints in the Sand."


My walk took me along the sandy beach around these large rocks jetting out (on this trip my tripod doubled as a poking stick to make sure the ground was not too soft to walk in. In some spots it looked hard but was in fact soft so when in doubt, I poked!). . .


. . . I made my way over several large blankets of seaweed left by the tides . . .


. . . across the sand floors during low tide


. . . then up . . .


. . . and through high grassed sand dunes.


. . . and then I get to do it all over again! :)


Yesterday, I also walked along the very beautiful "Silver Sands of Morar". The sand was so soft and whiter than the other beach I walked on so I can see how it got it's name. And once again this is another location that was used in the movie "Local Hero".

Also from yesterday, the beautiful Silver Sands of Morar . . .



Due to the weather in the three days in Arisaig I was not able to capture a beautiful sunset, which is one of the things I wanted to see here and which Arisaig is very popular for. But I still had the most wonderful time. I love the hotel that I chose and from all the little towns that I could've selected this was the perfect place to base for the three days I had to explore this area. It is a village that has one main road going through it, a small post office and a small grocery store. I would totally stay here again if I were to ever return to the Highlands!

And I just had to post this photo! I finally got to see one of those famous long horned caramel, long bangs Highland Cows! Did you know that they rarely move. Today was rainey and I had to literally stand in the rain and wait for him to turn my way. I spoke to him, I whistled, I jumped ....and when I started to head back to my car because I was getting really cold . . . he turned! In fact, he almost looks like he's sticking his tongue out at me. :)



Today I visited Loch Morar but with it having rained all day I didn't get to really explore it like I had hoped, but I shall post some photos soon. Didn't get to see a Morag sighting though which is probably a good thing for me. Tommorrow morning I catch the Ferry to the Isle of Skye . . . .

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Scotland: Interesting Sightings . . .

One of the things I've tried to learn to do more of during my travels is to pay attention to the little details (something I learned from reading AnnieNC's blog on the Churches in Venice) because you never know how very special they may be.

While driving the Road to the Isles, this little church was not on my must see list but I hit the brakes and made a stop as soon as I saw it. It is the Church of St. Mary & St. Finnan and it was built in 1870-1872. I walked closer to take a photo and low and behold I find a little shrine hidden away to the right with this beautiful Virgin Mary. Thanks for the lesson Annie.




While taking a walk in Morar I look down and find these pretty sea shells . . .


And as promised my first sheep and cow sightings. My cow isn't the pretty caramel long horn Highland cows but he was so cute and had a little curley doo on the top! I was so excited to finally see my Scottish sheep and Highland Cows (or at least one of them)!



Next up, my day exploring the Silver Sands of Morar . . .

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Scotland: Road to the Isles . . .

Today I left Fort William and took the A830 road which is more famously known as the "Road to the Isles." While in route to Arisaig I passed by some very interesting points of interest. BTW, this must be said. I am a huge fan of using public transportation while traveling in Europe (ie., trains) but if you plan on visiting the Highlands you must (need) do so with a car. You can stop anywhere and anytime you want and you can decide to stay as long or as short as you want. There is just no better way to experience the Highlands in Scotland!

The first stop I made was the small village of Corpach. This is where the Corpach (Caledonian) basin meets the sea at Loch Linnhe. From here I am able to see a small glimpse of the snow capped Ben Nevis. You can see it in this photo below.


Next, I arrive at the Glenfinnan monument which was built by Alexander MacDonald of Glenaladale in memory of all the clansmen who had fought for the cause. This location is where the Bonnie Prince Charlie (1745) raised the Jacobite standard and rallied his clansmen for battle. Here there is a National Trust Visitors Center which was closed and so I could not climb to the top of the tower. Still, it was very impressive to see in person.



Towering way in the background is the viaduct made famous by the Harry Potter movie is more than 100 years old.


Just up the road up a short hill is the Glenfinnan Station Museum which has a dining car and an actual hotel built from an old train dining car. It was also closed but I still had a look around.



In the museum window they had these cute posters which I had to take a photo of. One of the cats looks like Annie's Lulu.


Next, I arrive near the village of Lochailort. Just off the A830, I stop to take of a photo of the small white church that was used in the movie "Local Hero" which AnnieNC recommended to me. I had the music to the movie playing in the background and started to imagine that funny clip in the movie of the towns people sneaking out of the church while the main character is talking with a local. It was so cool to see it in person after watching the movie at least three times before I left. Thanks again Annie for the recommendation to see that movie.


Here are photos that I took to try to capture the stunning scenery and the "mood" of the Highlands. I wish I could write better to explain what it is like to be here and to see everything in person. And to travel this very famous stretch of road that holds such significance in Scotland's history. I am truly grateful to be here.





Next up, a sheep and coo sighting . . . .

Scotland: Fort William & "I think" the highest peak in the UK . . .

Guess what, Marta was right! I was able to find wi-fi access...I forgot it is available here in my hotel in Arisaig...but more about this quaint little village/town later!

Yesterday, I narrowly missed my train because I guess I didn't understand the ticket girl at the Queen Station. I thought my train was not there yet, and as I am passing the time by people watching I look up and I see Fort William but the time of departure differed from what I remembered it to be. I politely ask the lady next to me and she looks up and tells me that she thinks my train is Platform 3 which is departing now! I pick up my things and run towards the platform, barely got in before it started to roll! Hmmm I think I like the trains in Spain better...sorry UK! :)

The ride took a long time, nearly 3 hours but to watch the landscape change as we neared the highlands was so exciting to me. I may have dozed off for a few minutes (okay about 30 minutes) but for the most part I tried to stay awake to enjoy the scenery. Once in Fort William, the car rental company was already there waiting for me. I picked up my train tickets to Edinburgh while I was there just to get it out of the way. After a quick two minute lesson and directions to my hotel, I hopped in my car and off I went. Of course the first thing I did was turn left on to the right lane. I quickly moved left after I saw an oncoming car. Next, I tackled was is famously called a "Roundabout" --- Europe's version of an Intersection. I felt like Chevy Chase in that crazy movie, "European Vacation!" I got honked at once and went around 3 times before finding the right exit. I got honked at because I slowed down when I saw a car coming not realizing they will come to complete stop before entering the Roundabout. In Salzburg the Roundabout keeps going even with the merging in traffic. So that was new. Anyway, I found the right exit (mind you I can actually see my hotel while circling the roundabout)! :)

My hotel is "okay". The staff is pretty friendly. It's best feature is the location. Right on the edge of the center of town which is a pedestrian zone. Since Fort William is a very popular stop for hikers and mountain bikers because of it's close proximity to Ben Nevis and other climbing hills and to it's champion downhill course, the pedestrian zone is lined with oodles of Outdoor Adventure gear shops. Luckily, thanks to Marta's tip, I already have my hiking boots, pants, fleece top, gloves and rain gear. :) But I did get a couple of postcards and a key chain in the 1 lb store which is equivalent to our .99 cents store! Mostly I just looked around.


I decided to go find Ben Nevis (little did I know that it is right there but I just couldn't see it because of the heavy clouds). So I got in the car and actually did much better on the Roundabout! Well, I went to the visitor center which is very close to the Ben Nevis Distillery (I was tempted but I'm saving myself for some Talisker Scotch). Now I realized that I can't see Ben Nevis because of the clouds. Oh well...let me head back then. I got twisted around and ended up taking the wrong exit on the Roundabout and started heading south (going back South to Glasgow). I soon realize that if you are on these roads it can be a long while before you can find a place to turn around. I came across a small park looking over Loch Linnhe and used it as a photo taking opportunity too.



And although the clouds look threatening in the above photo, I've been lucky to catch some moments of sun. I can only imagine what an amazing place this must be to visit during the summer months!



Next up the Road to the Isles . . . .

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Scotland: Museums ...

My third day in Glasgow was another amazing experience. I hopped back on the City Tour bus and went to a couple more places that I didn't get to yesterday. So what did I find...the answer Art and interesting information about Glastonians!

First, the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum was such a cool and fascinating museum! They have just about everything and as I mentioned it was interactive.

Two of the my favorites (like Sandra)I really liked "The Annunciation" which is the intimate work of Italian master painter, Sandro Botticelli (1445-1510). The fine detail is embellished with the use of real god for rays of light, representing God's grace. I also liked the works of Henri Matisse and I also know that Maria mentioned Salvador Daili to me and so I stopped to take a look at one of his works called Chirst of St. John on the Cross. It was amazing.


Today was incredibly gorgeous and there were blue skys most of the day for me to enjoy.

Today I went to the Gallery of Modern Art, the People's Palace, the City Chambers and St. George Square and enjoyed every moment.

John McClean said of his work . . . "My paints are a song to color."


While on tour I made a friend who was also taking the tour. He was from India and was here on a business trip. We kept bumping into each other so decided to just buddy up ... there was one funny moment. While I was preoccupied with taking photos of the People's palace he yelled out because the bus was coming so I high tailed it back! That was exactly what my friend had to do with me when we were on tour back in 2005! Here's a photo of the People's palace with a little Winter Garden in the back.


I had such a fun time here. Thank you Glasgow and all you friendly Glasgonians! I had a blast. And tomorrow morning I head for the Highlands! Whoo Hoo!!! I've been so looking forward to this part of my trip.

I won't have any internet until I reach the Isle of Skye where I know my hotel has free wi-fi! Sorry, I won't be able to post live about my Road to the Isle experience and my first look at the beautiful Sands of Morar. But I promise to catch you up in a few days. Thanks again everyone for leaving comments and reading my blog. Have a great week.

Scotland: Glasgow Teaser . . .

Yesterday, I felt like Raymond Meads the comedian on the City Bus Tour Video that I posted. The weather wasn’t too bad, a little rain, some sun and then at the end piercing cold wind! The wardrobe for today is “layer”! It’s chilly outside but in the museums it was toasty!

I decided since I am only here for 3 days I needed to get to all my must see’s in the most efficient and fastest way possible. I could’ve taken the bus pass route but the tour bus is going to all of my must see’s and I could just pay 10 lbs for a two day pass. Not bad and they run every 30 minutes.

First stop, the Glasgow Cathedral….founded in 1250 and completed a century later the Cathedral is Glasgow’s oldest building. The cathedral was erected on the site of where St. Mungo (Patron Saint and founder of Glasgow) established a monastaric settlement. His tomb is located in the lower church beneath the ground level. Here, they also house some interesting displays of the Church architecture (which was nearly destroyed).

Above on a hill is the Necropolis (cemetery) which has these large tombstones. I’m not really high on visiting cemeteries, so I viewed it from the Cathedral (it was pretty amazing to see it because some of the tombstones were quite large) and then spent some time at the St. Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art. The museum explores the importance of religion in people’s lives around the world. And in doing so it promotes understanding and respect between people with different faiths or none. It was actually a very interesting experience. There were three floors and they used interactive displays as well. If you are visiting the Cathedral it is worth it to have a quick visit here.





You can see the Necropolis in this photos which I took from the St. Mungo Museum...


And here's some beautiful blue sky weather (which lasted about maybe an hour or two)...Glasgow is quite a beautiful city when the Sun is out and the skys are blue. But the people are so friendly that it is a beautiful city rain or shine! This is the outside of the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum located near the Glasgow University. More on the Museums in Glasgow in my next post ....

Friday, November 13, 2009

I'm Here! In Glasgow!

Well, I finally made it! My flight went by really fast on this trip. I slept most of the way and was as comfortable as anyone can't be in economy class! :) But I did the Happy Dance because I had an empty seat between me and the other passenger.

Going through the Passport check was interesting. The customs worker just couldn't believe that I was here in the UK not knowing anyone and traveling by myself. When she asked me why? The first thing that popped into my head was I "love" traveling and I just wanted to see Scotland! She smiled and let me pass!

The weather here is not bright and sunny but it is also not that cold either! And for the time being it's not raining. I'm very thankful. It is wonderful walking around weather.

So here is a photo from the inside of the Taxi that I took to my hotel. I'm definitely in the UK! :) The Taxi driver was very nice and gave me a lot of tips and a great orientation of the city layout. My hotel is in a pretty good spot, 10 minute walk to the City Center where there is a lot of restaurants, bars, shops and more importantly Banks with ATM machines. Before heading out to dinner and checking things out I just wanted to do a quick post just to let you all know that I arrived safe and sound. And now I can begin to write the pages of my Scottish Adventure.

Tomorrow I will head out to check out the many museums here in Glasgow which are all (get this) free! The taxi driver told me that the government believe that Art belongs to the people and so that is why the museums are free. Cool!

The people here are so nice and friendly! My hotel here is a small and run by a family. They have been so helpful.

Since I just got in I didn't get a chance to take much photos, but here are a couple to get the ball rolling...

My friendly taxi driver ...


Just above a small hill by my hotel there is this high Tower! I asked the hotel guy what it was and he said that it is a viewing observatory to watch the stars. He said that there is someone there each night and he goes up there there to observe the stars. He said I can just walk up the hill to check it out! I told him that was a wonderful thought and maybe I just will.



Well, gotta run! It looks like my trip is off to a great start. Thanks again everyone for your comments and well wishes! Sandra, sorry I didn't get to reply to your comments before I left. Thank you so much. I think I'm going to enjoy the Art Car Parade and the Talisker Tour! Hi Leslie, welcome back! I look forward to seeing all of your beautiful photos from this trip.

And now I'm off to check out Glasgow at night! :) Have a great weekend everyone.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

I'm off to Scotland . . . Thank you so much everyone!

Well, it's finally here! Whoo hoo! Sorry for posting so many entries at once, but I'm not sure that I will have enough time to post them before I leave on Thursday.

And what would a final post be without yet another video! :) Plus I really love this song!



Although I have a good idea of what I want to see and do in Scotland, this trip (like all of my future travels) still remains unwritten. And in just one more day I will start to fill the blank pages of this trip, sharing my experiences and personal impressions of beautiful Scotland!

Thank you so much to my family and friends, Slow Travel & Slow Europe and all of my Blogging friends for all of your comments, tips, advice and most importantly your wonderful encouragements! Reading your blogs is a constant inspiration to me and I couldn't have planned this trip without all of you.

Thanks again everyone for all of your well wishes. Hope you all have a happy and safe Holidays! I will hopefully try to post my first entry when I arrive in Glasgow on Friday...