2011 Amalfi Coast Adventures: Hiking the Sentiero degli Dei (“Path of the Gods”)

Today I had to choose between visiting the small town of Scala near Ravello or hike the famous Sentiero degli Dei (“Path of the Gods”).  I haven’t done any real hiking on this trip because I’ve been having some issues with my asthma and to be honest I made the mistake of watching the movie “127 Hours” and I was a tad scared of the thought of hiking alone in a foreign country in the middle of the hills up to 633 meters above sea level. 

But today I felt pretty good and I decided to conquer my fears of hiking alone.  Plus I didn't want to have any regrets on passing up the opportunity to hike this very popular trail. 

The plan was to hike from Bomerano to Nocelle which I read on my Sunflower Landscapes “Sorrento-Amalfi-Capri car tours and walks” book by Julian Tippet. I would highly recommend this book to anyone who wants to do some hiking on the Amalfi Coast.

First, I caught an early Sita bus to Amalfi then on to the town of Bomerano by way of Agerola.   From Bomerano the path starts just to the left of the main church in Piazza Paolo Capazzo.  From here the path goes through Grotta del Biscott, Colle Serra and ends in Nocelle where I took the bus back down to Positano then back to Praiano. 

The path was basically well marked except for a couple of places where I just wasn’t sure.  Luckily there was a hiker to point me in the right direction.

I found this hiking sign with this very cool statue of Mary in this cave like hole in the mountain.  It was as if she was sending her best wishes to all the hikers off to tackle the Path of the Gods trail.  Cool!

I later met a couple of hikers along the way, this one woman was very interesting and she spent a few minutes talking with me (her in Italian and me in English) but somehow it worked.  I asked if I could take her photo and she politely posed.  We bid each other Ciao and went on our merry way.  She was heading in the opposite direction.  In fact all the hikers I passed were going in the opposite direction. 

Now I can understand why this trail is called the “Path of the Gods”.  You almost feel god like standing above this magnificent view. 

Big carin with contributions made by hiker from all over the world. Can you see my rock? :)

I crash into a hiker taking a rest on this rock and I asked which way to Nocelle.  He told me go right up the path. When I reached the fork in the trail I turned back to him and he gestured to go right.

Trail markings

Now, I was in really good spirits at the beginning of the trail but that movie started to mess with my head because there were some really uneven rocky sections.  And to top it all off, I kept hearing rustling in the bushes as I walked along. I think they were the big lizards I kept seeing but I had visions of a rattle snake popping out from the bushes and attacking me. 

Finally I can see Nocelle and just like in a marathon race you think you’re close but then you’re not.  I finally get to this section and it went down under these enormous trees with leaves on the ground. It was dark, it was scary, I was alone and I was wishing my good hiking buddies were with me right about now.  Since that last hiker at the fork on the trail, I have not seen one person on the path and it was really making feel very uncomfortable. 

I heard another rustling sound and when I looked up I saw the face of this dog!  I got startled but I also think I startled him. J

I decided to buckle down and head down that dark and creepy path.  I look up and I could see my little friend!  Can you believe that he was actually waiting for me! 

My hiking buddy

My little hiking partner would walk ahead then stop and wait for me to catch up.  He actually escorted me all the way  to Nocelle which I thought was so cool.  But more importantly he kept me company when I really needed it.  I would talk to him along the way and I tried to keep up with his pace (he was a fast hiker). 

Finally the path evens out and there are hand railings for the rest of the way. Once we got to the town, my little friend turned towards me. He was a little shy and didn’t come close to me. I said Grazie and Ciao and then he disappeared back down the trail again. It was like he brought me right to the town and once he knew I got here, he was okay to leave me. 

I taped a short video to feature my little friend and his unselfish act of kindness to a hiker who really needed it. 

Thank you so much my little friend where ever you are!  

2011 Amalfi Coast Adventures: Naples . . .

Yesterday, I decided to do the reluctant day trip to Naples.  So why reluctant?  Well, I’ve heard so much about the city both negative and positive and well I just had to see it for myself.  

Arriving at Napoli Central Station

The three main reasons for this trip was to see the Santa Chiara Monastery  (and their beautiful Cloister), the National Archaeological Museum of Naples and eat an authentic Neapolitan pizza.  And I’ am happy to say that mission was accomplished. 

I woke up before the crack of dawn for the 6:30 Sita Bus to Amalfi so I could take the 7:00 am Sita bus to Salerno and the 8:30 train to Naples.  I needed to get all my must see’s in before at least 3:00 so I can make all of my transportation connections back to Praiano.  

I had some serious time limitations so from the train station I took a taxi to the Santa Chiara Monastery but got twisted around a bit and visited the wrong church. 

It was still quite an impressive church but I wanted to see the cloisters. I asked a staff person for directions, but she didn’t speak any English and after several try’s of explaining the directions to me she finally put her hands on my shoulders, turned me around and pointed me in the direction of where the Monastery is.   I actually thought that was pretty funny and I was very appreciative of her help.  I also couldn’t help but giggle at how she finally gave me the directions.   

The Santa Chiara Monastery Cloisters are so beautiful. And it’s hard to imagine the busy city activities just outside the walls.  They also had an interesting Musuem (which included a small Archaeology area.  Here are some photos I took:

Next I visited the National Archaeological Museum of Naples (and yes I took another taxi).  What an impressive collection of archaeology finds.  I thought the statue of Hercules was really impressive.  I think this was my favorite section of the museum.  I did purchase an audio guide along with my entrance ticket which came out to 10 euro.

I was running short on time so I decided to just wonder around, but do it quickly. :) 

In the process I did manage to get a taste of a street vendor’s Neapolitan pizza.  It wasn’t at a nice restaurant but being short on time I really couldn’t be picky.  Still, it was pretty descent and I could scratch the final item off my “must see/do” list.  J

So what are my impressions!  Well, I think Jerry was right on when he said Naples was a “gritty” city.  I saw quite a bit of grit.   But since my visit here was limited to just a day trip and I did not have a chance to really explore the city I don’t feel qualified to provide a comprehensive opinion on whether or not to put Naples on your must see list. 

However, I will say this.  I do not regret coming here and I think there are some qualities that I really liked along with some that I didn’t.  But that’s how it can be anywhere we choose to travel.  I think travel is a way to open the doors up to new and different experiences as well as a way to fulfill our interests and passions. 

Wow, only a few more days left on my trip and I’m already feeling quite sad about leaving my little home away from home town of Praiano.  Today, I hope to mail home a box full of excess baggage (already thinking ahead to the train ride back to Rome and my trip back home).

Ciao for now....

2011 Amalfi Coast Adventures: Grotta dello Smeraldo & How I made Paper

Yesterday, even after reading such negative reviews from Trip Adviser, I decided to take this boat ride (10 euro) from Amalfi to see the Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Grotto).  And although the experience wasn't quite on the same level as the Blue Grotto on Capri, in my opinion I thought it was really cool and I enjoyed it a lot!

The views of the coast from the boat was almost worth the experience . . .

Boarding the boat.

Leaving Amalfi

Views of the Coast from the Boat were amazing!

When we arrive at the sea cave location, I paid 5 euro to the guide and then boarded this small multi-seat boat where the guide paddles around the cave describing the history of how it was discovered and also to the location where you can really see the emerald color coming from beneath water level. It was really beautiful.  And the rock formations inside the cave was really cool too.

Approaching location of sea cave entrance.

Entrance to sea cave

Rock formations inside the cave

More rock formations inside the cave.

Once we boarded the boat again they guides then take us inside to see the Fjord of Furore.

The boat ride back to Amalfi was very pleasant and since I took photos going I pretty much relaxed and took in the scenery on the return trip which was really nice.

Next, I decided to finally see the Paper Museum.  My first attempt failed as they were closed when I got there. I'm so glad that I returned because the experience and what I learned was really interesting.  The entrance fee includes a live guide taking you down to where the machinery is located and she then describes the equipment, the process and the history. 

It is really quite a process . . . .

Entrance to Museum

Some of the Equipment used to make the paper

This is where you dip the tray in to make the paper (cotton is used).

The paper tray where the liquid is put on which makes the paper. You dip this in this big container.

The guide let me even try to do it. I dipped the tray in the liquid and then pressed it over this other sheet on this woodend stand. That was pretty fun to try it. :)

Mine

This is what it "should" look like. He, he.

More equipment. This one looked like a newspaper press. Over the years they invented newer equipment which would improve the time it took to make the paper.

Water from the mountain is used in the process as well.

Here she explains how the water system is used in making the paper.

After my day long adventures, I decided to have a quick bite at this restaurant in Amalfi before heading back to Praiano. They even had live entertainment.

This musician was really good.

While enjoying my pizza and the wonderful music of this musician  I reflect back on my adventures.  I really enjoyed seeing the sea cave and have no regrets for going even after reading the negative reviews from Trip Advisor.  Sometimes as a traveler you really need to experience things for yourself and make up your own opinion.  Afterall we are all really different people with different likes and dislikes and what may be a negative experience for one person may be an amazing experience for another. 

The other thing I learned is that I will definitely have to keep my day job because I would make a terrible paper maker! 

Okay, time for another adventure. Ciao for now. :)